Tsuruhashi, Osaka
Photo: Ken OHYAMA / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 2.0)
Neighbourhood guide

Tsuruhashi

Charcoal smoke, kimchi shops and a market that began as a black market

Tsuruhashi is where Osaka's Korea Town and a run of yakiniku restaurants sit. The station is the starting point for a market of about 800 shops and a shopping street of kimchi sellers. It's a small area with a short list of places, so treat it as a half-day or an evening.

Tsuruhashi Market is six markets and shopping streets beside the station, spread across Tennoji, Higashinari and Ikuno wards. It grew out of a postwar black market and includes a wholesale fish market where cooks buy early in the morning. Shop hours differ, so go in the morning if you want it at its busiest.

Osaka Korea Town on Miyuki-dori, in Ikuno-ku, has more than 20 kimchi specialty shops and Korean groceries. Hours and closing days differ by shop. The street association asks you to throw rubbish away at the shop where you bought your street food or take it home. Two yakiniku restaurants in the records are within a few minutes of the station.

Getting there

Tsuruhashi station is served by JR, Kintetsu and the Sennichimae Line. Momodani is the other stop for Korea Town.

9 places
Tsuruhashi, Momodani · Tsuruhashi (JR, Kintetsu, Sennichimae Line) stations
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Where to eat, and where to stay

Kainantei serves black wagyu yakiniku and is a 4 to 5 minute walk from the station. It's closed on Wednesdays and on one irregular Tuesday a month. Hakuundai and Kainantei run separate lunch and dinner sittings, so a mid-afternoon visit rarely works.

Where to stay: the area is near Tsuruhashi station, where JR, Kintetsu and the Sennichimae Line meet, so it connects easily to Tennoji and the city centre. It's thin on sights beyond food, so most visitors come for the day.

Neighbourhood · Free Osaka Korea Town (Miyuki-dori) A shopping street in Ikuno-ku with more than 20 kimchi specialty shops and Korean groceries, near Tsuruhashi.
Market · Free Tsuruhashi Market A cluster of six markets and shopping streets with about 800 shops beside Tsuruhashi station, spread across Tennoji, Higashinari and Ikuno wards. It grew out of a postwar black market and has a wholesale fish market that cooks buy from early in the morning.
Museum · ¥ Osaka Korea Town History Museum A small museum on the history of Korea Town, from the early Chosen Market to the present, 50 m north of Ichijo-dori at the main Korea Town street. It has run an exhibition on Ikaino kimchi.
Food Hakuundai Tsuruhashi Ekimae A yakiniku and Korean court cuisine restaurant about 1 minute from Tsuruhashi Station. The main Tsuruhashi store has been in business for over 40 years.
Food Kainantei A black wagyu yakiniku restaurant, a 4 to 5 minute walk from Tsuruhashi station.
Shrine · Free Miyukimori Tenjingu The shrine for the Ikaino area, dedicated to Emperor Nintoku, Sukunahikona and Osakahiko. The main hall and worship hall from 1930 are registered national cultural properties, and a poem monument to the scholar Wani, set up in 2009, speaks of Japan-Korea friendship.
Food Honke Yamada Shoten A kimchi specialist in Osaka Korea Town that says it has made kimchi for over 40 years. The shop keeps more than 80 kinds in stock, and a separate dining shop serves kimchi stew.
Food · ¥¥¥ Yakiniku Tsuruichi Tsuruhashi Honten A yakiniku restaurant a minute from JR Tsuruhashi, with box seats for up to six and smokeless roasters on every floor. Course menus run from 5,500 yen for nine items.
Sento Higashijo Onsen A small neighbourhood sento five minutes from Tsuruhashi station. The page recommends the jet bath and the lie-down bath, and there is a dry sauna and a cold bath.

What's on in Tsuruhashi this week

Stay in Tsuruhashi

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